mounting the opensensor

Take the PCB (printed circuit board, the green big thing) and look at the backside as in the picture.

Now solder U3 (MAX3232) on the PCB. We have two versions of this unit, a thin and a wide version. In the picture we have the thin one. If you have the wide one, please click here.

Now you have to turn the PCB to the front. The backside is ready (you may come back to the backside to cut some of the legs of some of the units).

Now you solder U5 (LM3940). 

Solder C11.

Solder C12.

Now solder U6. It is the voltage regulator.

Now solder the capacitors C5, C6, C7, C8, C8, C10, C13, C14, and C15 (do not worry, all are the same).

Now solder D1 and D3. There are two different colors (red and green). Be aware, the longer leg of the LED is the plus pole.

Now solder D2. Be aware of the direction!!!

Now solder J1, J2, J5, and J6.

Now solder X1 (22.184MHz).

Now solder C2 and C4.

Now solder U4 (nRF905 socket).

Now solder the main socket for the DSPIC - U2.

Now solder J7, the connector for the Pickit2.

Now solder U1 if you have the Bluetooth chip (if not just skip this step).

Now solder P1, a 9-pin D-sub 9 pol female.

Now solder R9 and R10.

Now solder R7.

Now solder R8.

Now solder R5 and R6.

Now solder R3.

Now solder J3, J4, and J8.

Now put the DSPIC into the socket (no soldering required) and (if any) plug in the nRF905.

Connect the battery clip. The black cable to ground (1st pin on J8) and the red one to VIN (6th pin on J8).

QUICKHACK: For opensensor 3.0 (newer PCBs will be corrected) we need to connect some pins as given in the picture. Any cable will be ok for that.